Pruning

Simple cuts you make now can save you a lot of time and money in the future

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Pruning young trees for good structure

Start pruning when the tree is young and resilient to lay the foundation for a strong branching structure. The right cuts made in the first few years after planting will set your tree up for a long life, reduce risk, and lower future tree care costs.

When to prune

Start the first winter after planting your tree, and check in with the structure every winter after. Wintertime is best because the tree is dormant and it's easier to see the branching structure when deciduous trees have no leaves.

Avoid pruning in the spring, summer, and fall except to remove any suckers, watersprouts, or broken, dead, or diseased branches.

A note on fruit trees

The following tips are meant for shade trees — pruning fruit trees with these methods can lower fruit production and/or quality. Different fruit trees are pruned according to their unique needs, often in ways that would be harmful to shade trees. Check out these fruit tree pruning tips from the UC Master Gardeners.

Park maintenance crews learn how to prune young trees for good structure while watching staff demonstrate how to make a proper pruning cut with a pair of loppers.
These items are helpful to have on hand - make sure they are clean and sharp:

Bypass hand pruners

Pruning saw

Bypass loppers

Pole saw

Pole loppers

Basic tips before you get started
  • Don't remove more than 25% of the live canopy in any one year.
  • Select the right tools for the job: bypass hand pruners, loppers, and a hand saw. Keep them clean and sharp.
  • Before you start, identify which tree species you have and consider the mature size and shape of your tree.
  • Stay safe! Keep your feet on the ground. Can't reach it? Avoid the ladder and hire a professional.

The strategy: 5 steps of structural pruning

A diagram shows structural pruning steps on a young deciduous tree that is dormant in its first winter after planting. Competing leaders, crossing and dead branches, and suckers are removed while temporary lower branches are cut back to about 1 foot with bypass pruners.
  1. Remove any dead, broken, or crossing branches, watersprouts, and suckers. This leaves a clean slate of good branches.

  2. Select a single central trunk to establish as the central leader — the tallest, straightest, and healthiest stem. Help ensure this leader gets established by removing or shortening any competing upright or long stems or branches more than half the diameter of the leader.

  3. Determine how much clearance you'll eventually need under your tree — branches should be elevated 8 feet above sidewalks and 14 feet above streets. Tree branches do NOT grow up as the tree grows taller; they stay in place. Look for a strong, healthy branch to establish as your lowest permanent branch (if you have a small tree, it may not be present yet).

  4. All branches under your lowest permanent branch are temporary branches. Keep these on the tree when young to prevent sunburn by shading the bark and promote a thicker, stronger trunk. If lower temporary branches are too long, cut them to about 1 foot, then remove them completely in a couple years. 

  5. Select and establish side branches growing from the central leader that are well spaced vertically and staggered evenly around the trunk. Do not allow multiple branches to grow from the same origin on the trunk. Small trees need branch spacing of 12 inches, and large trees need branch spacing of 18 inches.

Check out our pruning playlist on YouTube to see more examples of structural pruning on young trees or to watch a recorded shade tree pruning webinar.

The tactics: How to make pruning cuts

Always cut back to a bud, another branch that is at least 1/3 the size of the pruned branch, or the trunk.

When cutting back to the trunk, cut just outside the branch bark collar (often looks like a turtleneck attaching the branch to the trunk). This allows the tree to close the wound.

When cutting back to another branch or bud, cut just outside of the other branch/bud (which will then take over and grow).

When cutting a larger branch, use a hand saw with a drop cut (also known as a 1-2-3 cut) to avoid tearing the bark and creating a large, uneven wound.

Pruning mature trees

Certified arborists should be hired to prune mature trees

Mature trees should be pruned by certified arborists. For your personal safety, the safety of your property, and the health of your tree, do not try to perform tree work on mature trees or hire the work out to a gardener, landscaper, or handyperson.

Some exceptions of work you might do yourself include removing suckers growing off the roots or removing mistletoe with a pole saw.

Find tips on hiring a reliable tree care company to keep your mature tree in good shape.

A glossary of pruning terms